Tag: surfing

Staying Stoked

I’ve been overwhelmed by the support and goodwill out there in the surf community, after I shared my experience of an unpleasant encounter in the water. Thank you. I am also gratified that these difficult conversations about conflict and surf rage can be had in such a spirit of mutual respect. It has been interesting to read a variety of…

When surf rage overrides stoke

‘Don’t be sorry. Be better,’ said the surfer, after I apologized for my role in a collision with him. He didn’t look back. I watched him paddle out, his head high, back arched, shoulders squared, with the tips of his toes perched on the tail of his board. Be better? That seemed unfair. I’ve certainly made my fair share of…

Book Review – Barbarian Days – A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

The prose in this book is sublime, pure poetry in places. William Finnegan (author of many other books and columnist at The New Yorker) is a skillful, lyrical writer and his words are a pleasure to read. He is able to take essentially indescribable experiences and bring them to life with beautiful words. He achieves this in such a way that you, as the reader,…

Girl Power with Style: PE’s graceful ladyslider, Mia Baard

I happened upon Mia Baard when a couple of  amazing Cobbles Classic pictures and videos crossed my social media feed. I was struck, firstly by the grace with which she rides the waves, and secondly, by the beauty of Cobbles, the spot down at Cape Recife, just outside Port Elizabeth. I was keen to know how women’s surfing is doing in PE  and if it’s…

Paddle Outs and Pop Ups.

I choose to Stand Up Paddle because of the paddle, really. I prefer going into battle upright, with a weapon. So when they  (they = Tarryn + Tyran @ XOTB) decreed that we were going out on surfboards (it was too windy to SUP), my heart sank a little. I have never surfed a surfboard before because of the paddle out. (At Muizenberg this can…